Difference between revisions of "Grounding system sizing and selection"
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[[Category: Grounding conductor sizing and selection]] | [[Category: Grounding conductor sizing and selection]] | ||
+ | [[File:Groundinglabed201201.png|thumb|right|'''Wiring diagram of a stand alone PV system with a charge controller with DC lighting control and an inverter for AC loads. The system is designed using a TN-S grounding scheme.'''<br /> (1) Grounding electrode (2) Grounding electrode conductor (GEC) (3) Equipment grounding conductor (EGC) (4) DC system ground (5) AC system ground]] | ||
Properly [[Grounding system|grounding]] all non-current carrying metallic equipment in the electrical system, as well as both the AC and DC side of a PV system, is recommended to help mitigate electrical fires, lighting and electrocution risks to system users. This is no easy task though as designing and installing a proper grounding system is one of the more complicated aspects of off-grid PV system design as there are many [[Grounding system|different components]] that are required in order for a grounding system to function properly. The appropriate design varies regionally based upon not only the [[Electrical codes|electrical code]], but also the building, soil type and available materials. | Properly [[Grounding system|grounding]] all non-current carrying metallic equipment in the electrical system, as well as both the AC and DC side of a PV system, is recommended to help mitigate electrical fires, lighting and electrocution risks to system users. This is no easy task though as designing and installing a proper grounding system is one of the more complicated aspects of off-grid PV system design as there are many [[Grounding system|different components]] that are required in order for a grounding system to function properly. The appropriate design varies regionally based upon not only the [[Electrical codes|electrical code]], but also the building, soil type and available materials. | ||
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+ | A few universal notes on grounding electrodes: | ||
+ | *Grounding electrodes should always be installed outside of a structure in order to guide any lightning induced surges away from people. | ||
+ | *If there is more than one grounding electrode, for example one near a building and another near the PV source, both of them should be bonded (connected) together to avoid voltage differentials between the two electrodes. | ||
+ | *Electrodes can be encased in concrete to improve their conductivity to earth. There are even special types of concrete available for this purpose. This is mmandated by the [[Electrical codes|electrical code]] in certain areas. | ||
====Step 1: Determine the type of grounding electrode==== | ====Step 1: Determine the type of grounding electrode==== | ||
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|Ground rod | |Ground rod | ||
− | |Ground rods are driven into the ground - typically with a hammer. They must penetrate 2.5-3 m of ground in order to be able to establish a solid connection with the earth, which can be extremely difficult to achieve in rocky soil. | + | |Ground rods are driven into the ground - typically with a hammer. They are either made from copper or steel coated with copper. They must penetrate 2.5-3 m of ground in order to be able to establish a solid connection with the earth, which can be extremely difficult to achieve in rocky soil. |
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|Ground plate | |Ground plate | ||
− | | | + | |Ground plates are thin large plates with significant surface area that are buried in the ground. They are either made from copper or steel coated with copper. They must be bured at least 75 cm below the earth's surface. A ground plate should have a surface area of at least 1850 cm². Ground plates work well in areas with rocky soil where a driven ground rod is not an option. |
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− | |( | + | |Building rebar (Ufer) |
− | | | + | |The rebar of a building, if it is all tied together properly and encased in concrete, can serve as a grounding electrode. There are special connectors that are used to tie a grounding system into the rebar of a building. If a Ufer ground is an option, it will serve as a longer lasting and superior grounding electrode than any other option. |
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− | |( | + | |Water pipes |
− | + | |If a metallic water pipe leaves the building and has more than 3 m in direct contact with the soil, it can serve as a grounding electrode, but another electrode must still be installed (ground rod, ground plate, or Ufer ground). The connection to a water pipe should be made ''outside'' of a home - there are special connectors made for this purpose. | |
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Revision as of 14:08, 1 December 2020
Properly grounding all non-current carrying metallic equipment in the electrical system, as well as both the AC and DC side of a PV system, is recommended to help mitigate electrical fires, lighting and electrocution risks to system users. This is no easy task though as designing and installing a proper grounding system is one of the more complicated aspects of off-grid PV system design as there are many different components that are required in order for a grounding system to function properly. The appropriate design varies regionally based upon not only the electrical code, but also the building, soil type and available materials.
A few universal notes on grounding electrodes:
- Grounding electrodes should always be installed outside of a structure in order to guide any lightning induced surges away from people.
- If there is more than one grounding electrode, for example one near a building and another near the PV source, both of them should be bonded (connected) together to avoid voltage differentials between the two electrodes.
- Electrodes can be encased in concrete to improve their conductivity to earth. There are even special types of concrete available for this purpose. This is mmandated by the electrical code in certain areas.
Step 1: Determine the type of grounding electrode
Determining the right grounding electrode for a particular project is best done by consulting local electricians. There are some general principles with regard to choosing a grounding electrode:
Type | Description |
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Ground rod | Ground rods are driven into the ground - typically with a hammer. They are either made from copper or steel coated with copper. They must penetrate 2.5-3 m of ground in order to be able to establish a solid connection with the earth, which can be extremely difficult to achieve in rocky soil. |
Ground plate | Ground plates are thin large plates with significant surface area that are buried in the ground. They are either made from copper or steel coated with copper. They must be bured at least 75 cm below the earth's surface. A ground plate should have a surface area of at least 1850 cm². Ground plates work well in areas with rocky soil where a driven ground rod is not an option. |
Building rebar (Ufer) | The rebar of a building, if it is all tied together properly and encased in concrete, can serve as a grounding electrode. There are special connectors that are used to tie a grounding system into the rebar of a building. If a Ufer ground is an option, it will serve as a longer lasting and superior grounding electrode than any other option. |
Water pipes | If a metallic water pipe leaves the building and has more than 3 m in direct contact with the soil, it can serve as a grounding electrode, but another electrode must still be installed (ground rod, ground plate, or Ufer ground). The connection to a water pipe should be made outside of a home - there are special connectors made for this purpose. |